Golden Orange Phulkari Vari Da Bagh

Western Punjab, early 20th century, circa 1930. 242.5 x 127.5cm (95.5 x 50 inches). This beautiful, deep golden orange phulkari is densely embroidered in floss silk on a fine cotton ground. Featuring a complex geometric design of concentric diamonds set within generous, asymmetrical borders of pink, purple, orange and white stacked triangles. The piece was acquired as part of a larger collection by an academic in India in the 1950's and brought to the UK in 1966 when the family relocated. 

An exceptional, museum quality example in superb condition. Phulkari ('floral work”) refers to the folk embroidery of the Punjab region. Bagh ('large garden') is a style wherein the entire surface is embroidered. Vari da Bagh (‘garden of the wedding trousseau’) is a type of shawl used in Punjabi wedding ceremonies and is characterised by a main field embroidered with gold, with borders in a variety of colours.

The quality of these textiles needs to be seen to be believed. The surface is completely covered in embroidered silk and they look and feel like the absolute height of luxury. The way they fold and flow and drape, the buttery soft feel of them, they are second to none.

Astonishingly, these beautiful and accomplished textiles are created without recourse to pattern books and the embroidery is worked entirely from the reverse of the fabric by counting the yarn. Fine gaps are left between the shapes so that the red base fabric (khaddar) shows through as an outline. Taking years to make, embroidery traditionally begins shortly after the birth of a boy, then years later, the completed bagh is draped around his bride just after their wedding ceremony. 

Condition is wonderful. A very small loss of embroidery to the lower right, a couple of very minor stains. Minor signs of wear, the occasional pulled thread. Please see images and video, more images available on request. 

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